Dry curly hair: how to care for it?
Curly hair is naturally drier and more fragile than straight hair. Curly hair lacking hydration feels rough, dull, and brittle, with curls losing definition and frizz appearing. How can you care for your dry, curly hair daily? Which hair routine to adopt? How can you achieve beautiful, well-defined curls? How to hydrate curly hair? Let’s see.
Updated on , validated by our team of René Furterer experts.
Why is curly hair naturally dry ?
Understanding the structure of curly hair
The term “curly hair” or “textured hair” encompasses various types of hair with different degrees of curl. American hairdresser Andre Walker developed a hair classification system in which category 1 refers to straight hair, while the other 3 categories cover textured hair. These are broken down as follows:
- Wavy hair falls under category 2, which includes 2A (slightly wavy hair in an S shape), 2B (more pronounced S-shaped waves), and 2C (well-defined S-shaped waves).
- Curly to coily hair is classified under category 3, which includes 3A (loose curls shaped like a 2), 3B (tighter 2-shaped curls), and 3C (even tighter curls resembling a corkscrew).
- Frizzy hair, also known as kinky hair, falls under category 4, which includes 4A (defined O-shaped curls), 4B (very tight, almost invisible Z-shaped curls), and 4C (very tight, almost invisible O-shaped curls).
It is worth noting that different curl patterns can be observed within the same head of hair.
But why does hair curl? It is primarily due to the angle of the hair follicle. For curly hair, it is angled and curved (in an S shape), causing the hair to grow in a non-linear fashion, unlike straight hair. The shape of the hair shaft’s cross-section, determined by genetics, also plays a role. The flatter the oval of the cross-section, the curlier the hair.
Dryness and curly hair
Attached to the hair follicle, the sebaceous gland produces sebum, crucial for hair health as it is the key component of the hydrolipidic film. This film coats the surface of the hair and scalp, protecting them from external factors (UV, pollution, etc.) and regulating hydration by preventing internal water loss. Sebum is also responsible for the soft and silky appearance of the hair.
However, for curly hair, sebum struggles to travel down the hair shaft and reach the lengths and ends. As a result, it cannot nourish the hair fibre. Additionally, the scales that form the cuticle, the outer layer of the hair shaft, are not coated by the sebum, making the hair porous. The scales, remaining open, do not retain water in the hair, causing the lengths to dry out. The tighter the curl, the harder it is for the sebum to reach the lengths, and the drier and more porous the hair becomes.
What environmental factors influence dry curly hair?
While curly hair is naturally drier, certain factors can exacerbate the issue:
- Using harsh chemicals: perming, colouring, or bleaching damages and weakens the hair fibre. As a result, the hair becomes more prone to dehydration.
- Using heated tools: heated tools (hairdryers, straighteners) further weaken the hair fibre. It is better to dry hair using a diffuser or naturally. After showering, you can wrap your hair in a microfibre towel to gently pre-dry your hair.
- An unsuitable routine: curly hair needs to be hydrated and nourished! It is important to adopt a suitable routine to maintain beautiful curls.
- Pollution: it has a drying effect on both the hair cuticle and the scalp.
- Weather conditions: wind, cold, and heat all impact hair hydration.
Common problems with dry curly hair
How to recognise curly hair lacking hydration or nourishment? Here are the most common signs and some solutions to address them.
Dry and brittle hair
Do you have brittle, dry hair? Are your curls coarse to the touch, lacking shine and softness, and seeming to have lost their density along the lengths? Curly hair is fragile, especially when dry. The hair is thinner at the bends, making it easier for the cuticle to lift.
How to repair dry, brittle hair? You need to hydrate it! Apply a deep conditioning mask once a week to hydrate and repair the hair from within. Lastly, treat your hair gently by avoiding harsh treatments as much as possible (heated tools, colouring, bleaching, UV exposure…).
Undefined curls
Are your curls loose and lacking definition? Curls form more easily when the hair is properly hydrated.
To help your curly hair, use the right styling products. A styling cream will hydrate, nourish, and redefine your curls while protecting them from daily external aggressions.
Frizz
Frizz is the bane of curly hair. These are small, unruly strands that break away from the rest of the hair, giving it a fluffy appearance. Frizz can also result from overly dry or humid air, the use of heated styling tools, or overly aggressive brushing.
To avoid frizz, apply a hydrating mask once a week, use suitable styling products, and be gentle when detangling and drying your curly hair.
The formation of knots in the hair
The more dehydrated the hair, the more prone it will be to tangling. Rubbing against clothing or pillowcases (unless it is made of silk) can also contribute to knot formation.
Gently detangle your hair after applying conditioner or a hair mask, while it is still wet or damp, with a wide-tooth comb, a suitable brush or your fingers.
Dry ends
Do you have dry, or even split ends? While applying your hydrating and styling products, make sure to focus on the length and ends. You can also use a serum for damaged ends to seal any splits and prevent new ones from forming. Perfect for healthier curls!
If your ends are particularly damaged and split, consider trimming them to start with a healthy base.
Hydrating and nourishing curly hair
What is the difference between hydration and nourishment?
The two concepts are often confused. Hydration and nourishment are related, but it is important to distinguish between them.
- Hydration will provide water to the hair, making the hair softer and the curls softer and bouncier. Your curly hair lacks hydration when it feels dry, rough, fluffy, looks dull, tangles and frizzes easily, and when your curls have difficulty forming.
- Nourishment on the other hand feeds the hair and strengthens the hair fibre. Nourished hair is less prone to breakage, grows better, and is more resilient to external damage. Nourishing treatments typically contain ingredients such as shea butter, evening primrose oil, argan oil, and more. Your curly hair lacks nourishment when it is brittle, when you notice split ends, and when your curls lose their definition.
The importance of hydrating curly hair
Curly hair naturally lacks hydration. Indeed, the scales of the cuticle of curly hair do not benefit from the protective action of serum and are more open than those on straight hair. The result? They do not retain moisture within the hair.
However, curly hair needs hydration to stay soft and healthy. It is also important to hydrate the scalp in order to achieve beautiful curly hair.
Hair care routines for dry curly hair
Daily routine
Daily, you can adopt a 3-step routine to care for your dry curly hair:
- Step 1: A silicone- and sulfates-free curl-enhancing shampoo for a gentle cleanse.
- Step 2: A conditioner specific to surly hair that detangles, redefines curls and protects against frizz.
- Step 3: A leave-in curl cream that nourishes and defines curls while protecting against frizz.
In addition, hair complements can help strengthen your curly hair.
Weekly routine
Other weekly treatments can complement your dry curly hair routine :
- A pre-shampoo treatment with essential oils to soothe the scalp. A healthy scalp is essential for strong hair and well-defined curls. For kinky hair, a nourishing, protective, and restructuring oil treatment pre-shampoo can be applied as an overnight mask.
- A pre-shampoo scalp scrub to cleanse and restore strength and vitality to the hair. An exfoliating treatment that can be beneficial in combating the effects of pollution, helping to achieve shiny, healthy curly hair.
- A plant keratin mask to detangle and repair damaged hair. Apply alternately with a specific conditioner to deeply nourish curly hair. Leave in for however long you need, depending on the condition of your hair.
How to maintain defined and healthy curls?
Products to use to revive your curls
How to maintain your curls between washes? You can mist your lengths with a water spray to refresh your curl,s or use a leave-in curl activator spray to hydrate and revive your curls and waves.
Techniques to refresh curls without washing them
Once the spray is applied, you can style your curls using one of the following techniques:
- The “scrunch”: bending forward, use your hands to grab your curls at the ends and gently squeeze from the bottom up. The result is very natural.
- The “finger coil”: this technique involves redefining your curls by wrapping individual strands of hair around your fingers. You can achieve more or less compact curls depending on what you are aiming for. You can use the “finger coil” technique on all your hair or just a few sections.
3 tips to keep your curls defined
To maintain beautiful, defined curls for several days, adopt the following habits:
- Do not brush your hair when it is dry: brushing dry hair is a no-go for curly hair, as it can break the curls. Instead, detangle your curly hair when it is wet or damp with a wide-tooth comb or a suitable brush.
- Avoid touching your curls too much: this habit can cause curls to loosen.
- Be cautious with regular and elastic hairbands: these can break the curls. Opt for spiral hair ties or silk scrunchies instead.
How to protect your curls overnight?
After a night’s sleep, curls can lose their bounce, and knots or frizz may appear. Fortunately, there are solutions to minimize these issues.
Your ultimate ally: silk pillowcases
A standard cotton pillowcase can weaken hair fibre. This is not the case with a silk pillowcase, which offers several benefits for curly hair:
- Preserved hydration: silk is hydrophobic, meaning it does not absorb the natural moisture in your hair or the product from your hair care routine.
- Defined curls: your curls glide smoothly over silk without catching, leaving them bouncy, frizz-free, and tangle-free in the morning.
- Anti-static: silk is a naturally anti-static fibre, preventing static electricity build-up in your curly hair, reducing frizz.
Silk sleep caps are also available to help preserve your curly hair.
Tips to protect your curls
Some hairstyles help protect curly hair overnight by preventing friction against the pillow. Examples include braids or the "pineapple" hairstyle—a high ponytail at the crown of the head.
However, make sure that these hairstyles are not too tight and that the hair around the temples is not pulled too tightly.